Acorn vs BritBox --differences

Here's something I wrote about the differences between Acorn and BritBox:

BritBox has more shows (all their shows are UK-related shows, including a few from Aus/NZ, Canada, etc) since it started its streaming service owning loads of older British shows. It does not carry shows from other areas.
... Acorn TV has many UK shows, but also has good shows from Australia/etc, plus good international shows with subtitles.

BB has more shows in total partly due to all those older shows (as well as having more comedy stuff and soaps, and it also has live events).

The article below decides that BritBox is "better" these days but mostly just because BritBox has more total programs.
That total number includes loads of older shows of all kinds including period dramas, more UK soaps, more comedies (scripted-comedies, but also more-current British panel shows and stand-up comedy performers), and it also has live UK-related events.
Those are things I'm often not particularly interested in, although I do like many "old" mysteries.

Btw, there's virtually no overlap** of shows between the Acorn and BritBox streaming services.

Personally I have both and watch excellent shows on both, but probably Acorn a bit more than BB.

. . . Two other services I have where there are some good UK shows, plus other good ones, are Amazon Prime Videos (free with Prime) and the add-on channel at Amazon called "PBS Masterpiece" (an additional $5.99/mo).

This is an interesting page for comparing Acorn and BB ... and also has info on how to get them onto your tv:
https://www.britishtv.com/britbox-vs-acorn-tv-in-2023-which-streaming-service-is-better

(** re overlapping shows:
According to that page, there's less than 1% of overlap between shows on Acorn and BritBox. And they also say, "Both platforms have a large number of shows which are not available on the other. Some are 100% exclusive to the platform in question, while others --particularly older shows-- can be found elsewhere, too.")

P.S. (from the article above):
Both BritBox and Acorn TV are available using a variety of methods – so we won't talk too much about interface.
It varies depending on your device and how you subscribe.
If you subscribe through Amazon, for example, you'll never see the BritBox or Acorn TV interface – only the Amazon one.
. . . . If you don't have a smart TV or do have a smart TV that doesn't support the BritBox or Acorn TV app, that's something you can fix by either subscribing through Amazon ..... OR by adding a streaming device like a Roku box or an Amazon Fire Stick (or Apple TV box?). The devices just plug into your TV, connect to your wifi, and allow you to put streaming channels on your TV (whether it's “smart” or not).

FOOD SAVER --some other uses

 

Doing Polymer Clay Cheaply

(several of my previous posts at Craftster combined)

If you need to save money (or just hate to spend anything you don't need to spend!), there are definitely ways to do that with polymer clay.  

For example, you don't need to buy some of the basic things needed at places like Michaels, etc.
A plain old standing oven thermometer is cheaper at  grocery stores, Target, etc., and regular toaster ovens will also be cheaper (or at thrift stores, etc.) if you even decide to get one... all toaster ovens can have problems with temperature regulation though, even expensive ones, so the main thing is to just get one that's reasonable... sometimes clayers take one or more back after they check them at home (without clay).  

For more info on ovens, testing, baking, etc.: http://glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm (... click on Ovens...)   

A pasta machine is a good idea though (using a bi-weekly 40% off coupon at Michaels), and the less-sturdy pasta Chinese-made pasta machines will be just fine as long as you do a few things to keep from messing them up.  This page has more details on those as well as the many uses pasta machines have for polymer clay: http://glassattic.com/polymer/pastamachines.htm (for example) > General Care 

 You'll probably want to buy at least one long blade for doing many things with polymer clay, and the ones you'll find at Michaels are fine although they can be a little different according to brand.  In the interim, most things can be done with a single-edge razor blade, and a pack of those at a hardware store or Target are cheap. 

More on the various kinds of blades and their differences (as well as "shape cutters" of various types) on this page: http://glassattic.com/polymer/cutters-blades.htm 

 A clay extruder/gun is fun, and not too expensive, but it could wait if you didn't want to do the few things it's good at right away. 

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 Re doing polymer clay as inexpensively as possible, here's some other stuff I've written before too: 

 For many of the clay techniques (including but not limited to "sculpting"), you can make do with inexpensive tools and supplies, or with things just found around the house and garage, or pre-empted from other crafts, or used for purposes they weren't intended for, etc, or make some of them.

 

The only things you really need are a work surface, a roller of some kind, tools at least like a toothpick, an oven to bake in, and often a blade of some kind (especially if not just sculpting with your polymer clay).  

Check out this page for some suggestions on basic beginner tools: http://glassattic.com/polymer/tools_Dremels_worksurfaces.htm

> Beginner Tools, > Work Surfaces, > (hand) Rollers, Brayers

 Oh, I guess I'd suggest getting a bottle of liquid polymer clay too at some point just because it can do so many things, and is also a great glue (though not a tacky glue).  

The only liquid clay usually available at the retail level is Sculpey's version which is called Translucent Liquid Sculpey, "Bakable Transfer and Color Medium".  (You may also now find Sculpey's "Clear" Bakable Medium which is clearer than their TLS, and perhaps a few colors like black or gold).  It should be hanging on a blister pack card with the clay stuff.  Fimo Gel (and Kato Liquid Polyclay) are clearer than Sculpey's TLS, but you may have to get those by mail order (though I saw the Fimo Gel at Joann's the other day). 

 The most expensive thing is just the clay of course, over time anyway. 

There are ways to buy clay cheaper, but the best thing to keep the cost down might be just to concentrate on making smaller items and "miniatures."
Most miniatures take very little clay, yet allow the clayer to explore almost every technique within polymer clay... and besides they're just fun, and can even be profitable.  You could even make small items for a diorama, etc (including Xmas or Halloween), or you could make quite elegant things, just in a small form.  

Here's the main page at my site specifically on miniatures (although other miniatures will be covered on other pages): http://glassattic.com/polymer/miniatures.htm 

 Another possibility might be jewelry of various kinds, for yourself or as gifts... some jewelry pieces like earrings and pendants are small don't usually take much clay, and there are ways to do jewelry that even appeals to most men: http://glassattic.com/polymer/beads.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/jewelry.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/pendants_cording.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/wire.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/gifts_men_teachers.htm

Also, many things can be just "covered" with polymer clay so the actual amount of clay used is a lot less. 

Cheaper clay or scrap clay can also be used as a permanent base underneath a decorative clay layer, and larger beads and other items, etc. can be made over all kinds of things including tightly-scrunched aluminum foil. 

Or clay items can be made over a form which gets removed after baking or even before, so that again less clay gets used (e.g., bowls, hollow-backed jewelry, etc --or there are ways of making things completely hollow too). Sculpts can also be made with "cores" of cheaper materials, especially for thicker items like heads and torsos. 

http://glassattic.com/polymer/covering.htm (metal/glass/plastic/wood/etc) 

http://glassattic.com/polymer/vessels.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/armatures-perm.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/armatures-temp.htm (dissolvable, removable support) 

(see also Beads > Hollow) 

 (AND from another post:) 

. . . polymer clay is usually cheaper online than the regular prices you'll see at retail stores. You'll generally also be able to buy ALL the colors that brand/line of polymer clay offers, and get fresher clay (esp. if buying from a polymer clayer who is a distributor, or a supplier with a lot of turnover).   

Clayers who do very much clay usually end up buying the larger bricks of clay because of their price, but also for the convenience of having single large bricks instead of a lot of little individually wrapped packages.   

Btw for saving money, Original Sculpey and Super Sculpey-Original are good values as long as you won't be stressing any thin or projecting areas too much after baking (and/or using permanent armatures underneath which will at least help with their brittleness-when-thin).  Keeping that in mind, SuperSculpey-Original is fine for making heads and hands or for just painting over and can also have colorants mixed in to get new colors, and Original Sculpey is even cheaper and can also be colored on with various paints, etc. Original Sculpey will be weaker than SS-O or S-III/Bakeshop after baking, but still can be fun.  (The company later added lines called Super Sculpey-Firm and Super Sculpey-Medium which are stronger than the first two, and Super Sculpey Living Doll which is probably pretty strong.)     

As for buying clay cheaply, one good thing to do is catch one of the (now fairly frequent) sales at Michaels.  These days it's mostly Sculpey clays that get put on sale and somewhat frequently, but sometimes they'll sell other brands/lines too (larger "bricks" of clay are available online and are cheaper than buying the equivalent numbers of smaller bars at regular prices; Kato Polyclay is a really good deal these days whether it's bought locally or online). 

On one of the pages of my website I have names and links for various mail order suppliers (most are also online suppliers) that sell polymer clay (and often which brands they carry), if you want to check them out: http://glassattic.com/polymer/supplysources.htm (click on Mail Order, under Clays--unless you're not in the US, in which case click on Non-USA). 

Many of the distributors listed are polymer clayers themselves, but of course there are also the large outfits like Dick Blick, etc.

Be sure and check the current prices for each distributor, plus s/h, and also see if they have a minimum order or have price breaks with certain quantities.  

Prices do change but you'll also want to note that the brand called Kato Polyclay is cheaper than the others in general.  It's an excellent clay too. It's stiffer when raw than Sculpey III or FimoSoft, but also stronger after baking in thin areas and has better handling characteristics; it also darkens the least during baking.  It comes in the fewest colors of all the brands (17 colors), but most any color can be achieved by mixing those colors together. 

If you're interested in the characteristics/advantages/disadvantages of the various brands/lines of polymer clay, look on this page: http://glassattic.com/polymer/Characteristics.htm  

And also check out my previous comments at Reddit for summarized info:  

... the colored polymer clays: https://www.reddit.com/r/polymerclay/comments/9uk8c2/i_need_suggestions_on_good_clay_brands/e96dxdr  

... the neutral-colored polymer clays (sold mostly in bulk for painting and/or as skin colors):

https://www.reddit.com/r/crafts/comments/9vs0ow/airdry_polymer_clay_and_acrylic_paint/e9fxeyn https://www.reddit.com/r/somethingimade/comments/760rhv/orca_whale_super_sculpey_and_acrylic_paint/doc0qwe 

It's also possible to mix colors of polymer clay together to get virtually any new color so you wouldn't need to buy loads of different colors, and many clayers mix their own colors anyway to get just what they want or a color not sold by the particular brand/line they use.  

For the largest possible palette, you'd want to buy the "purest" colors to begin with because while you'd always be able "tone" down a color later, you wouldn't be able to make a color purer if you'd started with toned-down colors. 

The basic idea is to have a red, a yellow, and a blue, plus black and white.  From those you should be able to mix a complete palette of hundreds of colors. Actually it turns out that the most primary version of those colors is actually (believe it or not) magenta, turquoise, and lemon yellow, but any red, blue and yellow will work to just make "a" palette (though the colors in that palette may be toned down or look different from other palettes).  

You'll generally need more white than any other color so you can lighten any mixed colors and not have to stick with medium to dark colors only.

If you then add the special polymer "colors" of translucent, and one or two of the mica-metallics like gold or Pearl (which is a whitish color while raw but is basically colorless mica clay) in some of the clay lines to those basic 5 colors, you can get loads more colors and special effects as well. 

You can find much more info on mixing colors and palettes on this page: 

http://glassattic.com/polymer/color.htm 

You can also color polymer clay with other colorants... for example, oil paints or oil pastel shavings (or *small* amounts of acrylic paint), alcohol inks, spices, etc., and also more particulate things (often called "inclusions") like herbs and coarser spices, play sands, metallic powders, crayon shavings, etc, etc. Those will usually be mixed into translucent polymer clay or tinted-translucents. 

http://glassattic.com/polymer/letters_inks.htm  http://glassattic.com/polymer/paints.htm http://glassattic.com/polymer/inclusions.htm   

(http://glassattic.com/polymer/color.htm)

As for your kids (or any beginners), you might want to tell them to check out the following page at my site too:

http://glassattic.com/polymer/kids_beginners.htm 

It has a lot of ideas about polymer clay things that kids can make (or that others might want to make for them), as well as easier projects for any beginners, and using a number of different techniques, altogether on one page. 

 HTH, Diane B.  

TEST for kids_projects:instructions & photos

Nomorobo --preventing junk phone calls

Nomorobo
(aka NoMoRobo) 

(Feb. 23, 2017)
I used to get up to 10 junk calls per day till learning about the free Nomorobo service (short for "no more robo calls").  Having Nomorobo since then has made my life *much* more pleasant, and less constantly interrupted.

The service works for more than recorded robo calls.  It also works for any telephone number that has made zillions of calls from one source, whether the caller is recorded or live person/telemarketer/etc, using "call frequency" information to screen the numbers (and also compares to its huge blacklist of numbers as well as to a whitelist).

It even works for most political calls if the user selects that option, and may work for more in the future (e.g., charity calls).
I'm also able to report any phone number that slips through or wouldn't have been caught because the caller hadn't phoned quite a zillion people (contractors or others looking for business, etc--must be those with whom you haven't done business though, or at least for some years).  As long as an actual telephone number shows up on the Caller ID display (although Caller ID isn't required to use Nomorobo), it will then get investigated and likely blocked for the person reporting and everyone else using Nomorobo.
Calls from places like medical centers, schools, etc, always get through, and one can always whitelist certain numbers if desired.

Nomorobo was created in response to a challenge from the FTC to figure out a way to deal with these calls (it receives more complaints about junk calls than any other topic).  Aaron Foss came up with Nomorobo and won the challenge.  He allows anyone to use Nomorobo for free (except businesses--they pay a certain amount to keep Nomorobo functioning though it's not a for-profit business).

For most people, and for now, junk calls will ring aloud once, and then be cut off.
If there is a second ring, the call won't be a junk call and can be safely answered.  (Some bad calls do get through, but seldom.)
It works by taking advantage of "simultaneous ring," which service providers have but don't use.

As of now (though may well change), Nomorobo works mostly on phones using VOIP (home phones with service provided by a company like Comcast Xfinity,  AT&T U-verse, Verizon FiOS, Vonage, etc).  It will not work on home phones using the older traditional copper cable method  (the phone itself would look the same for both).

UPDATE (didn't know this before):
Nomorobo now also seems to work on a few (smart) cell phones like iPhone 6 and up (but Android and more are to come); however there's a charge for those (e.g., $1.99 for one mobile phone).
Cell phone service providers themselves are *finally* beginning to try to offer this kind of blocking for mobile phones now as well though, in which case junk calls on cell phones should be severely curtailed just from their offerings.

(Btw, none of these things are the same as intentionally blocking a single phone number with one's carrier or on a cell phone.  It's automatic once set up, and works for all junk calls.)

more info on how Nomorobo works:

https://nomorobo.zendesk.com/hc/en-us
home page:

https://www.nomorobo.com

(old Gmail info--some overlap)

nomorobo (free)

more info/tutorials at a different site:

http://www.cnet.com/how-to/screen-unwanted-calls-without-one-at-a-time-blocking (down the page a bit)

info --links re history and more:

http://www.wired.com/2015/01/guy-found-way-block-robocalls-phone-companies-wouldnt
http://www.bizjournals.com/newyork/news/2014/06/20/meet-the-man-who-thinks-he-can-kill-the-auto.html

Aaron Foss describing nomorobo at Reddit:
http://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/2sax3w
http://www.reddit.com/r/tabled/comments/2sdp0h/table_iama_guy_that_fights_phone_scammers

2015?...Aaron Foss won A $25,000 cash prize from the Federal Trade Commission for figuring out how eliminate annoying robocalls that dial into your phone from a world of sleazy marketers.

The year was 2013. Using a little telephone hackery, Foss found a way of blocking spammers while still allowing the emergency alert service and other legitimate entities to call "in bulk."
Basically, he re-routed all calls through a service that would check them against a whitelist of legitimate operations** and a blacklist of spammers (and blacklist of crowd-sourced spam numbers).

**If you’re concerned that legitimate robocalls will be blocked, Foss says you can report those numbers directly to him so they can be “whitelisted.”
...political calls ...offers the option of blocking or not...charity calls... Aaron said "Right now (Feb 2015), they're all blocked....When we put in custom black/white lists, you'll be able to choose charities that you want to come through.")

Sep 2013:
Nomorobo is currently available to people who have VoiP service from their phone companies (their phone calls go through the internet with VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) ---e.g., AT&T U-verse, Cablevision Optimum, SureWest, Verizon FiOS and Vonage (and Comcast Xfinity** and others). Foss started with these companies because they made it easy for people to get the simultaneous ring feature. 

... If your phone service provider doesn't support Nomorobo (which you will find out when signing up), the software prompts you to call your phone provider to get them to provide the simultaneous ringing service to their customers.
***if you really get hung up while signing up using Xfinity, Comcast can guide you through it, but most will be able to install alone.

(still true??) ...and an antivirus system or corporate firewall might block it. 

Nomorobo still does not work with any traditional landline phone service because they don't offer the simultaneous ring feature it requires. (The landline companies say they support Foss, but are limited by their older technology.)

...However, he hopes to add traditional landline phone companies in the near future. ... (Jan 2014) Foss said "There is hope" for people with landline phones, , but a solution is probably one to two years away.

(Caller ID is not required for Nomorobo to work, but is required for reporting junk calls that slip through.)

Free for individuals, but not free for businesses. ...NoMoRobo’s business model is to serve consumers free in order to collect the data about the bad actors. NoMoRobo will then charge businesses for the service using the data provided by the large base of consumers being served for free.

cell phones (NOTE  2017... this has now changed for some smartphones)
Nomorobo does not work for wireless phones, but there are a number of robocall-blocking apps are available for Android devices such as NumberCop, Call Control, PrivacyStar, mrnumber, and Blacklist Plus.... (2015) Apple prevents apps from intercepting calls, so robocall blocking on iPhones is impossible right now....but do any of those really work well and without hassle?

...Call-screening apps, such as Truecaller, PrivacyStar and WhitePages Current ID, already screen or block suspected robocalls placed to cellphones, so they would catch most political ones. These companies say that they plan to do even more as the mid-term elections approach, such as solicit feedback from subscribers to help flag political robocalls for everyone who uses their service.
how it works:

Nomorobo uses a service called "simultaneous ring" that is provided by most VoIP phone companies. This feature gives customers an option of having one or more phone numbers ring at the same time when an incoming call arrives. But simultaneous ringing can also offer the option of routing your incoming calls to Nomorobo as well as to your phone.

Nomorobo makes sure the incoming call isn't from an automatic dialer, being dialed hundreds of times, etc, (or isn't from its blacklist of known robocallers).
If it is, Nomorobo blocks it by answering it, holding for a half second or so then hangs up again. Once the call has passed through the Nomorobo screening, Nomorobo hangs up so there's no possibility of eavesdropping.
If it isn't (and/or is on a whitelist), Nomorobo lets the call go through to your phone.

...........If your phone company offers simultaneous ring and you sign up for Nomorobo, all of your calls will also go to Nomorobo's computers.
The company uses caller ID and call frequency information to screen them. (and compares them to its huge blacklist of numbers as well as to a whitelist).
When Nomorobo decides a call is a robocall, it hangs up after the first ring. ...Many people report hearing no rings at all though when calls are being blocked.
(however, if the FCC will clarify to the carriers that it's ok to provide robocall blocking services if consumers want themt, then carriers can build robocall blocking directly into the systems (Xfinity/etc already?).  Then all garbage calls will disappear and no longer even one ring.

For any robocalls that slip through, the numbers can be easily reported (by you) so they can be added to Nomorobo's blacklist...it's "crowd-sourcing" to stop illegal telemarketing.

(still true???) ...There is a backup in case a genuine call accidentally gets rerouted to Nomorobo. A recording says, “you have been identified as a robocaller” and asks the caller to type in a two-digit number to verify he/she is human. If done correctly, the caller is put through.

"Since you are still getting the single ring, you are also getting the Caller ID string. If you have a reasonably modern home telephone, the calls blocked by NoMoRobo.com will show up as a series of “missed calls”.
You can review these periodically to see if anything is getting blocked that should not be.
(still the method?)...For any problems whether it was a call that should not have been blocked or a call that should not have gotten through, it is very easy to report a problem. Simply log on, fill in the details, and press submit."

natural cat litters + scoops

natural cat litters + scoops

scoopers for pine-pellet poop:

Some pine pellet litter companies have names of some companies that make good scoopers (see below)

So Phresh Heavy Duty Litter Scoop (large square holes in med-large scooper)...also at petco.com, cheap (11" long x 5w x 3h)
http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/so-phresh-heavy-duty-litter-scoop
(Feline Pine ... 1-800-524-1328 , Mon - Fri (9:00 AM - 5:00 PM ET, New Jersey)
Feline Pine brand scoop (large rectangular holes)...comes only with special litter box, or sold separately too?https://www.mainecoonfancy.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2013/post-758-0-36764600-1369322019.jpg
...also Feline Pine "Earth" scoop version with slots doesn't have large enough holes for pellets (reviewers)
https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Earth-Feline-Pine-Litter/dp/B000793KLK

IRIS scoop: small/short, but large slots for pine litters; tab for hooking on side of box/trash/etc (Add On item at amazon ($2 Add On, buy two?):
https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Cat-Litter-Scoop-Navy/dp/B002BDU8KG

metal skimmer/ladle "spiders" for cooking--ones with larger holes/slots:
https://www.amazon.com/WMF-Profi-15-Inch-Stainless-Skimmer/dp/B00005O66J

fish turner spatulas (or other spatulas with wide holes/slots)...could bend up end and maybe sides to create more of a bowl:
https://www.amazon.com/OXO-Good-Grips-Fish-Turner/dp/B000YDO2MK

hand forks for gardening, etc:
https://www.google.com/search?q=garden+hand+forks+tools

large salad forks/salad "hands":
https://www.google.com/search?q=large+salad+hands+forks

wire trivets of various kinds (use as is, bend, and/or add handle):
https://www.google.com/images?q=wire+trivet
wire racks for cooking, grilling:
https://www.google.com/images?q=wire+rack+cooking+grilling

kitchen slotted spoons (smaller or larger) with wide holes/slots:

http://www.caparoom.com/static/images/products/B00004OCME_1.jpg

metal potato mashers (with serpentine/snakelike shape, not grid):
https://www.amazon.com/OXO-56291-SteeL-Potato-Masher/dp/B00004OCMH

more diy:
...cut out wire from a strainer, then wrap wire around the rim in a bowl shape in a grid shape (weaving over-under if desired)
........or attach "chicken wire" or hardware cloth to rim, etc, or use alone

...can just cut out/remove some of the plastic strips/dividers in a regular plastic scooper with strong scissors or utility knife or  Dremel, etc, to make slots/holes larger

Dyes and Resists/Techniques for Eggs

EGGS --Colorants & Techniques

Natural Dyes

light to darker browns: (many) yellow onion skins, or strong brewed coffeeyellow: ground turmeric blue: canned blueberries or red cabbage leaves 
page red: fresh beets or cranberries, frozen raspberries
light yellow: orange or lemon peels, carrot tops, celery seed, or ground cumin
pale green: spinach leaves
green-gold: yellow Delicious apple peels

MANY MORE natural dyes:  
https://www.google.com/images?q=natural+dyes+for+eggs
https://www.google.com/search?q=natural+dyes+for+eggs
  

instruction for using natural dyes

...Put eggs in a pan (single layer).
...Pour water in pan till eggs are covered.
...Add about one teaspoon of vinegar.
...Add the skins/foods/etc for the color you want the eggs to be. (The more eggs being dyed at a time, the more of the dyes/dyestuffs will need to be used.)
...Bring water to a boil.
...Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes (at least --the longer the contact, the darker the color).
...Remove the eggs, and wipe or rinse.
(To get darker shades, let eggs sit in dye overnight-- perhaps in refrigerator if not using blown eggs** though probably not necessary.  Also use a larger proportion of foodstuffs and less water.)

Some Other Dyes

food coloring
...For each color, measure 1/4 teaspoon liquid food coloring in small bowl.
Add 3/4 cup hot water + 1 tablespoon white vinegar to each color.
Add eggs and allow to sit till desired color.
Remove with slotted spoon and pat dry.
…  mix 30-40 drops of food coloring, 1/2 cup boiling water, and 1 teaspoon white vinegar. Let dye cool completely before using it (?).

crepe paper
Soak crepe papers in hot water in individual bowls or cups for each color.
Add eggs and allow to sit in water until he desired color is achieved. Remove and allow to dry.
(also works with tissue papers?)

men's silk ties
http://mommyknows.com/silk-tie-dye-easter-eggs-tutorial

Using Resists

Resists of various kinds/materials can be used to prevent dyeing from occurring underneath areas they're applied.  

For the first dye color used (if there's more than one to be used), this will result in the area under the resists (or "masked" areas) to remain white or brown like the original egg.
For subsequent colors, the resists/masks will often be left in place so the color underneath them won't be changed, but more resists are added and they're dyed again. The areas under those second resists will remain the first dyed color.
Many colors can be created on the same egg surface this way if desired.

hint: may want to use lighter colors first 

Use lit candles to drip/dribble/etc hot wax onto eggs.
When wax sets, dip egg into dye.
Take egg out and let drain if needed.
Then either peel the wax off, or drip additional wax on the egg and dip it in a different color.
When finished, carefully peel off the wax (or see below).

crayons  ...can be used instead of hot wax to create resist areas

draw heavy crayon patterns on the egg--good-quality crayons usually best (but careful not to crack shell)
dip egg in dye, preferably a dark color...leave in dye until desired color is reached.
...remove with slotted spoon and place in 200º F oven for a few minutes until wax is melted
wipe wax off with paper towel
if desired, dip again in a lighter dye to fill in pattern where wax was (though could affect color of first dye)

.... (To remove hardened wax, peel off, or put egg in a low oven around 200º F, or to the side of a candle flame if careful, to heat it a bit, then wipe melted wax off the egg--any remaining film of wax will give a slight sheen to the egg's surface and somewhat protect any non-permanent colorants used.)

psyanky (Ukranian eggs)
...dyed after using drawn-on wax resists, frequently with a tool called a tjanting pen, usually in patterns and in multiple colorsthis is a more complex and involved technique:
https://www.google.com/images?q=pysanky

https://www.google.com/search?q=pysanky+how+to+tutorial

grate crayons
...fill a jar with very hot water
...drop bits of grated crayons into hot water
...dip or add a hard boiled or blown egg as soon as crayon bits begin to melt
...twirl egg in water with spoon...wax bits should make a design on the egg
...carefully remove egg and set upside-down in egg carton to dry

rubber cement:
First make a stand for holding the egg if you want by cutting a strip of paper and stapling into a circle, then set egg in stand.
Dip popsicle stick, etc, into the rubber cement and dribble it onto the egg.
Let dry about 15 minutes, then turn egg over and dribble bottom.
Place egg in dye and leave till the color desired.
Remove egg from the dye with the spoon and gently pat with a paper towel...Let dry for about 30 minutes.
To remove the rubber cement, rub it off the egg with fingers.

white craft glue (PVA glues, like Elmer's Glue All, tacky glue, Mod Podge, etc.)
...should be able to use permanent glues like these as resists, allow to dry, then dye and rub off once done

...(could probably also use polyurethane, clear fingernail polish, etc, to create resist patterns, but would be difficult to remove after drying so could leave them as resist areas with a glossy appearance)

rubber bands:
...wider rubber bands make good resists; thinner ones will leave fainter lines
...they will hold on the eggs quite well, and will create striped areas (see below) 

tapes & stickers:

...masking tape, electric tape, etc (preferably water-resistant tapes)
...wrap around eggs, pressing to adhere
...or cut out custom shapes (adhere tape to waxed paper, cut shapes leaving a small tab for easy removal of waxed paper, then press tape shapes to eggshell
...or use stickers, though some may be a bit more difficult to remove after dyeing (or just leave in place as part of decoration)

cheesecloth (one or more layers):
...wrap tightly around an egg (or use to hold other things in place as with plants below), and secure edges with rubber band
...dye, then remove (pattern will be fainter "white" or other color than if using tape, etc)

panty hose:

can be used to hold various loose supple items 

wrapping thread around the items and egg can work well too but more time consuming and will leave a faint pattern

more Patterns 

striped eggs:
...use wide rubber bands or tapes around the egg (around, or top to bottom)
...dip in dye...or add more rubber bands or tapes then dye additional colors

plant material, or other supple items:... use panty hose or thread to hold plants, leaves, flowers, etc, tightly against the shell for dyeing by applying the pieces where desired, then wrapping a square or shaped piece of panty hose around the entire egg, tying in a knot on the "back" side or holding with a rubber band
...dye, then remove panty hose

mysterious spots:
Put about 2 teaspoons of cooking oil (Canola works well) in the dye.
(You might want to make two containers of your dye, so you don't mess up all of your regular dye.)
When you dip in your egg, it makes the dye not stick to the places where the oil is, thus making mysterious spots on your egg. Tuula, Port Orford, Oregon

Other Uses

Christmas tree ornaments (if blown), can use U-shaped wire ornament holders in hole in top, glue on bails or just thread loops, etc.

use on wreaths

place in bowl on coffee table, etc.  

egg puppets:
build the fingerhole/neck  around a piece of dowel rod...slip it out after baking, while the piece is still warm. I cut several 2 inch lengths just for doll/puppet necks. For hand puppets, I use an egg (covered with a #5 layer of schmutz--old mixed clay leftovers-- for the head form, xacto-ing a hole in the bottom after the initial baking  to insert the dowel. Then, form the head over the egg (wide part up, pointy part down) and you can push fairly hard as the first layer is baked.  Sarajane Helm

I would probably find a few finger-size dowels, cut them about 3 inches long and stick them in a blob of scrap clay with a flat bottom. Then I'd use them as little stands to bake the puppet heads on. You could use them over and over. Carol

Basic Info

**Eggs can be blown first, then decorated (then held under the liquid while dyeing or filled with water first to help them sink).
Or hard-boiled eggs can be used if they'll be eaten soon.
Or raw eggs can be used then left to dry a long time to shrivel and dry the innards (as with "psyanky"). 

For info on various ways to blow eggs, see this page at my site (which also has info about "covering" or partly-covering blown eggs with polymer clay):  

http://glassattic.com/polymer/eggs.htm (first part of the page, down to the category called "Bubbles, Cracks")

To get darker, more saturated colors from any dyes, use proportionally less water and more foodstuffs or dye, and let the eggs sit in the dye longer.  Using hot water will often help as well.

Using vinegar as a "mordant" will help colors hold better.

FINISHES:
...To give eggs a sheen, rub with mineral oil or odorless cooking oil on soft cloth, or rub with clear paste wax (e.g., carnauba wax for shoes), or rub with hot wax.  This will also seal some colorants more from moisture, perhaps fading, etc.

...To give eggs a high gloss shine, (remove any wax first,) then apply clear polyurethane, clear acrylic medium, Mop 'N Glo or other floor polishes, clear fingernail polish, etc.  Some spray acrylics can work but best to apply in light sweeping layers, drying between each, or can get drips and uneven areas. 

KELP noodles

KELP NOODLES

...health advantages:
made from mineral-rich sea kelp
no gluten, no grain
low calorie ...no fat
low carb...good for diabetes, paleo and low carb diets, etc

4 oz noodles (1 serving) =  6 calories, 0 g fat, 0-1 g carbohydrate, 0 g sugar

8 oz noodles = 12 calories, 0 g fat, 1-2 g carbohydrate, 0 g sugar

(good source of iodine, but can get too much iodine so perhaps limit to 4 times/wk)

purchase: Sea Tangle is a good brand ...locally, can buy them at Korean markets or perhaps other Asian markets
......Whole Foods has them too--look in the refrigerated section for the Sea Tangle brand (next to the produce in my WF) since won't be on the regular aisle along with other kelp noodle brands (also in packages)
...online, can buy at amazonpics of Sea Tangle kelp noodles (look for Great for Salads on front, though others may be fine too):  
https://www.google.com/images?q=Sea+Tangle+kelp+noodles

taste:  basically neutral, or might taste slightly salty haven't rinsed them well...tend to take on flavor of other ingredients
...kids seem to like them

texture: crunchy if only rinsed (for salad toppings, etc)
.....if soak 10 min, will soften some
.....if cook long, will soften a lot so texture more like most regular noodles
(don't get mushy like bean thread noodles)

appearance: clear or fairly clear when cooked (or out of pkg?)... not same as bean thread/cellophane/glass noodles (saifun, or made from arrowroot, etc) tho which are more translucent than clear 
....diameter of angel hair pasta

storage:  keeps "a long time" (at least a month) if submerged in water after opening
...unopened packages can sit for months with no appreciable deterioration

uses: like regular noodles or in other ways ...with pesto, marinara sauce, cheesy sauces of all kinds... in green salads...in soups ...with veggies (crunchy or soft)

preparation:  open bag and rinse noodles well--rinses off slightly salty liquid packaged in, for crunchy version (on salads, etc)...also separates them
...to soften more, submerge in warm water for 10 min (or in spaghetti sauce 10-15 min, or after 10 min water soak?)
...to soften a lot (so like regular noodles), cook long time (with sauces--or acidic sauces soften quicker?), etc
can then cut in shorter lengths with kitchen scissors to make easier to eat
...soak them in something acidic such as lemon or lime juice and water to soften to a more spagetti-pasta-like texture.
...if you soak them for 30 min in warm water and a bit of lemon juice, and then add the noodles to your sauce to cook for a few minutes they soften right up like any other noodle.
 

recipes:
salads:

....add about half and half to raw greens/lettuces, then add lacto-fermented veggies/kraut and perhaps half a lg avocado...squeeze 1 lemon on top and message salad with hands

...mung bean sprouts, carrots, shitake mushrooms, green onion, marinated tofu...sesame tahini...and other Asian flavors

...let noodles sit in a ginger miso sauce a few min ... great with peanut sauce, cucumber and cilantro
... my 8 year old loves them with just soy sauce on them
...almost like regular noodles if soaked in acid, or heated awhile especially mixed into heated sauces
...in Asian curries

...in stir frys

more recipes & pics:

https://www.google.com/images?q=recipes+"kelp+noodles"
https://www.google.com/search?q=recipes+"kelp+noodles"Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/kathaleena46/kelp-noodles~recipes

(most people hated the shirataki noodles, which are made from glucomannan starch, an indigestible dietary fiber made from devil's tongue yams, and very little nutritional value tho zero calories)